There are places you come across that seem like they’ve been there forever, as though they were destined to be there all along. In Seattle, one such spot went quietly about making a difference not with advertising, but with word of mouth, dedication, and the sort of food that stays with you. It was Salumi, and to Anthony Bourdain, it was more than just another deli. It was something much deeper. He referred to it as “a holy place,” a term he reserved only for the very few food places that were able to get deep into your soul and remain there.
For Bourdain, food was never just about flavor. It was about background. About where it was from, who cooked it, and what lay behind each ingredient. That’s what made Salumi so sacred to him. It was the personification of everything he adored about food: history, integrity, modesty, and most of all, devotion. The store didn’t need fancy décor or endorsements by celebrities. It had heart and to Bourdain, that was paramount.
A Holy Spot in the Food World
The second you walked into Salumi, it was like walking into another time. A place where food didn’t have to be devoured, where flavors were cultivated over hours, and where each sandwich passed over the counter was like a peaceful act of faith. It wasn’t fancy. It wasn’t attempting to please anyone. And that’s precisely why it was so great.
Blackberry-White Chocolate Fool with Toasted Hazelnuts
Equipment
- 2 Large Mixing Bowls
- 1 Fine-Mesh Strainer
- 1 Electric hand mixer or stand mixer For whipping cream to stiff peaks
- 1 Fork or Potato Masher For pureeing half of the berries
- 4 Serving goblets or glasses
Ingredients
Main
- 4 cups fresh blackberries
- 1/4 cup sugar plus 3 tablespoons
- 1/4 cup cassis
- 1 1/2 cups very cold heavy cream
- 3 ounces white chocolate melted
- 1/4 cup hazelnuts toasted and chopped
- Mint leaves for garnish
Instructions
- Place berries in a large bowl. Add 1/4 cup sugar and 2 tablespoons cassis, stir well, and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Remove half of the berries and mash with fork until pureed. Strain the mixture into a bowl.
- Whip heavy cream, 3 tablespoons sugar, and 2 tablespoons cassis in a large bowl until stiff peaks form. Fold in the white chocolate and strained puree and chill for 1 hour.
- Layer goblets with berry-cream mixture and whole macerated berries. Sprinkle with chopped hazelnuts and garnish with mint.
Notes
So, what is it about Salumi that provoked such an outpouring of veneration from a culinary giant like Bourdain? The answer lies at its very foundation, rooted in a captivating story of passion, tradition, and an unyielding, deep love for cured meats. Salumi Artisan Cured Meats, sometimes referred to simply as Salumi Deli, was founded in 1999 by Armandino Batali, father of celebrity chef Mario Batali, and his wife, Marilyn Batali. This partnership laid the groundwork for a truly unique culinary venture.
From Engineering to Artisan Meats: The Story of Armandino Batali
Salumi has just as much depth in its story as it does in its flavors. The guy behind it, Armandino Batali, never worked in the food business growing up. He was an engineer at Boeing for decades, where he spent his days far from the kitchens and curing rooms that would become his future domain. But when he retired, rather than sit back, Armandino chose to pursue a long-term dream. He traveled to Italy not on vacation, but to study. To learn the old art of curing meats the way they used to do it.
This wasn’t a hasty career change. It was coming home, a calling. Armandino delved into centuries-old methods, the type that took time, patience, and attention to detail. When he returned to Seattle, he wasn’t bringing back recipes. He was bringing back philosophy a way of looking at food that honored its heritage and treated each piece of meat like a canvas.
In 1999, with assistance from his wife Marilyn, Armandino launched Salumi. It was a tiny store, but it was an overnight sensation with the locals. Not due to hype, mind you, but because locals could tell the difference. Each salami, each prosciutto slice, each slow-cooked porchetta sandwich was accompanied by a story. The meats were produced in-house using traditional methods. Nothing was hurried. And it told.
The store’s title Salumi was straightforward, but it spoke volumes. This was not a deli. It was a shrine to cured meats. Where food was made, not manufactured. Armandino had a clear mission: introduce Pacific Northwest markets to Italian curing tradition, and do so without compromise. The outcome? A store so fine it caught even the most traveled gourmands’ attention.
Tigelle Modenesi
Equipment
- 1 Large Mixing Bowl
- 1 Kitchen Scale for precise flour measurement
- 1 Rolling Pin
- 1 Tigelliera or Heavy-Bottomed Skillet/Griddle
- 1 Dough Scraper (optional, but aids handling)
Ingredients
Main
- 2 teaspoons of dry active yeast
- 1 cup warm water some people prefer to use warm milk
- 1 pinch of sugar
- of flour
- 3 1/4 cups flour
- 2 tablespoons of olive oil
- 2 teaspoons salt
Instructions
- In a large mixing bowl, combine the warm water (or milk), dry active yeast, and a pinch of sugar. Let the mixture sit for 5-10 minutes until it becomes foamy, indicating the yeast is active.
- Add the 3 1/4 cups of flour, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and 2 teaspoons of salt to the yeast mixture. Mix with a spoon or your hands until a shaggy dough forms.
- Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead for 8-10 minutes until it becomes smooth, elastic, and no longer sticky.
- Place the kneaded dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover it with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap, and let it rise in a warm place for 1-1.5 hours, or until doubled in size.
- Gently punch down the risen dough to release the air. Divide the dough into small, equal portions (about 30-40g each) and roll them into smooth balls.
- On a lightly floured surface, use a rolling pin to flatten each ball into a disc approximately 2-3 inches (5-7 cm) in diameter and about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) thick.
- Cover the shaped tigelle with a towel and let them rest for another 15-20 minutes while you prepare your cooking surface.
- Preheat a tigelliera (traditional tigelle press) or a heavy-bottomed cast iron skillet or griddle over medium heat until it is hot. If using a skillet, lightly oil it.
- Place the tigelle on the preheated cooking surface, ensuring not to overcrowd the pan. Cook for 2-4 minutes per side, or until golden brown, puffed, and cooked through.
- Remove the cooked tigelle from the heat and serve them immediately, split open and filled with your desired savory or sweet accompaniments.
Notes
The Sandwich That Stopped Bourdain in His Tracks
When Bourdain stopped by Salumi in 2007 for an episode of No Reservations, he didn’t stop by just to chow down. He came with respect. You could sense the change in his voice the minute he opened the door. And when he finally took a bite of one of Salumi’s sandwiches, the world stood still for a minute. That’s how intense the food was.
He called it “perfect,” and true to form with Bourdain, prefaced it with something even stronger: “It should be a UNESCO World Heritage Site.” That was not a wisecrack. It was his way of indicating that what Salumi had on offer was not merely a great lunch it was cultural heritage. So what was so special about those sandwiches?
Pasta with Salumi Bolognese
Equipment
- 1 Large Dutch Oven or Heavy-Bottomed Pot For simmering the bolognese sauce
- 1 Large Pot For cooking spaghetti
- 1 Cutting Board
- 1 Chef's knife
- 1 Wooden Spoon or Sturdy Spatula For stirring and scraping the pot
Ingredients
Main
- 4 ounces mixed salumi such as soppressata or finocchiona, chopped
- 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil plus more as needed
- 2 ounces country ham or prosciutto ends cut into small cubes
- 8 ounces ground beef chuck
- 1 ounce guanciale or pancetta cut into small cubes
- 2 tablespoons fennel seed
- 1 large pinch chile flakes
- 1/2 cup diced carrots
- 1/2 cup diced celery
- 1 cup diced onion
- 1/2 cup tomato paste
- 2 cups dry red wine
- 1 28-ounce can tomatoes (whole, peeled), crushed by hand
- 1 tablespoon dried oregano plus more for garnish
- 2 cups chicken stock
- 4 tablespoons butter cubed
- 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
- 2 pounds dried spaghetti
- Chopped fresh parsley
- Fresh ricotta optional
Instructions
- Finely chop all salumi, country ham or prosciutto, and guanciale or pancetta; dice carrots, celery, and onion.
- In a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot, render the guanciale/pancetta over medium heat until crisp. Add chopped salumi, country ham/prosciutto, and ground beef chuck. Brown thoroughly, breaking up the meat. Drain excess fat if desired, leaving about 2 tablespoons.
- Stir in fennel seed and chile flakes, cooking for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the diced carrots, celery, and onion; sauté until softened, about 5-7 minutes.
- Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, for 2-3 minutes until it darkens slightly and caramelizes.
- Pour in the red wine, scraping the bottom of the pot to deglaze and release all browned bits. Bring to a simmer and reduce the wine by half, about 5-7 minutes.
- Add the hand-crushed tomatoes, dried oregano, and chicken stock. Bring the sauce to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for at least 30-45 minutes, stirring occasionally. For deeper flavor, simmer longer.
- While the sauce simmers, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Add the dried spaghetti and cook according to package directions until al dente.
- Just before serving, stir the cubed butter and red wine vinegar into the bolognese sauce until the butter is melted and incorporated.
- Using tongs, transfer the cooked spaghetti directly into the bolognese sauce. Toss vigorously to coat the pasta evenly, adding a splash or two of reserved pasta cooking water if needed to achieve a silky consistency.
- Serve immediately, garnished with chopped fresh parsley and an optional dollop of fresh ricotta.
Notes
Begin with the meats. Salumi’s cured meats soppressata, culatello, mole salami were unfamiliar to most Americans. They were intense, complex, rich. Then there were the sandwich combinations. A favorite was the porchetta sandwich, which was stuffed with slow-roasted pork, chimichurri, onions, and pickled peppers. Another was the hot soppressata with mozzarella and tapenade, full of texture and heat.
Even the bread served a function: chewy, crusty, and strong enough to stand up to richness inside. And each sandwich was balanced, both in conception and in ideals. There were no tricks. Only uncomplicated components put together very well.
And then there was the line. People waited outside for an hour or more, and no one complained. In fact, Bourdain said that if he were to stand in a 90-minute line anywhere on Earth, this would be the place. Coming from a man who could eat anywhere in the world, that’s not something to take lightly.
Fresh Shell Bean Soup
Equipment
- 1 Large stockpot or Dutch oven
- 1 Chef's knife
- 1 Cutting Board
- 1 Wooden Spoon or Spatula
- 1 Vegetable Peeler
Ingredients
Main
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling
- One 3-ounce slice of pancetta finely diced (1/2 cup)
- 5 garlic cloves smashed
- 3 medium carrots diced
- 3 celery ribs cut into 1/4-inch dice, plus 10 celery leaves, for garnish
- 1 large onion cut into 1/2-inch dice
- 1 fennel bulb diced
- 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
- 1 rosemary sprig
- 1 basil sprig
- 4 large plum tomatoes—peeled seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice
- 3 pounds fresh cranberry beans shelled (3 cups); see Note
- 2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- One 3-by-3-inch piece of prosciutto skin optional
- 6 cups chicken stock
- Salt and freshly ground pepper
Instructions
- Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the finely diced pancetta and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until crisp and rendered, about 8-10 minutes. Remove the pancetta with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the rendered fat in the pot.
- Add the smashed garlic cloves to the pot and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the diced carrots, celery, onion, and fennel; cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened, about 10-12 minutes.
- Stir in the chopped flat-leaf parsley, rosemary sprig, and basil sprig. Cook for another 2 minutes until aromatic.
- Add the peeled, seeded, and diced plum tomatoes to the pot. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to help them break down slightly.
- Stir in the shelled fresh cranberry beans, diced Yukon Gold potatoes, and the optional 3x3-inch piece of prosciutto skin.
- Pour in the 6 cups of chicken stock. Bring the soup to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and let it simmer.
- Cook the soup for 45-60 minutes, or until the beans are very tender and creamy. Stir occasionally to ensure even cooking and prevent sticking.
- Carefully remove and discard the rosemary sprig, basil sprig, and the piece of prosciutto skin (if used).
- Season the soup generously with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, adjusting as needed.
- Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Garnish each serving with the reserved crisp pancetta, a sprinkle of fresh celery leaves, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil before serving.
Notes
Salumi’s Expansion Without Losing Its Soul
Over time, Salumi’s popularity exploded. What started as a family-run shop became a name recognized across the country. People came from all over to experience the meats Bourdain had praised. But as demand grew, so did questions about how to scale without losing the spirit that made it special.
In 2017, Salumi made a pivotal change. A majority share of the company was sold to a private equity company, with an aim to increase production and distribution. Others feared the action would water down the brand or sacrifice quality. But the switch was made with care. The company’s new incarnation, Coro by Salumi, paid respect to its heritage. The recipes stayed. So did the employees and the curing process. Even the physical shop in Seattle stayed open, continuing to serve those legendary sandwiches.
What changed was reach. Coro began offering charcuterie nationally, making it possible for fans across the U.S. to get a taste of Salumi’s meats. While some missed the intimacy of the original shop, most were just happy the tradition continued.
And the spirit of Armandino Batali still echoes through every product. Though he stepped back from day-to-day operations, the values he instilled integrity, tradition, and passion remain untouched.
Deep-Fried Sous Vide Turkey Porchetta (Turchetta) Recipe
Equipment
- 1 Large pot or deep fryer Sufficiently large and deep to safely submerge or partially submerge the turkey porchetta.
- 1 Deep-Fry Thermometer To monitor oil temperature for consistent cooking and safety.
- 1 Wire Rack Set over a baking sheet for draining excess oil.
- 1 Tongs or spider skimmer For safely lowering and removing the porchetta from hot oil.
- 1 Sharp Knife For slicing the finished porchetta.
Ingredients
Main
- 1 recipe turkey porchetta prepared through the end of step 7, skipping wrapping and refrigerating step at end of step 5
- 1 1/2 quarts 1.4L peanut or canola oil for deep-frying, or 2 tablespoons (30ml) canola oil for pan-frying
- Kosher salt
Instructions
- If using, place a wire rack over a baking sheet near your frying station.
- Add peanut or canola oil to a large, heavy-bottomed pot or deep fryer, ensuring there is enough depth to at least partially submerge the porchetta while leaving plenty of headspace for oil displacement.
- Heat the oil gradually to 350-375°F (175-190°C), monitoring with a deep-fry thermometer.
- Carefully and slowly lower the dry turkey porchetta into the hot oil using tongs or a spider.
- Fry the porchetta, rotating occasionally if not fully submerged, until the skin is deeply golden brown and crispy all over, which should take several minutes.
- Monitor the oil temperature, adjusting heat as necessary to keep it within the target range.
- Once uniformly crispy, carefully lift the porchetta from the oil using tongs or a spider.
- Transfer the fried porchetta to the prepared wire rack to drain off excess oil.
- Immediately season the hot surface liberally with kosher salt.
- Let the porchetta rest for a few minutes before slicing with a sharp knife and serving.
Notes
What Salumi Meant to Bourdain, and Why It Still Matters
Anthony Bourdain’s connection to Salumi exceeded that of a television personality stopping by a deli. It was his whole philosophy. To him, food was never simple sustenance. It was identity, community, memory. And at Salumi, he had all three.
One of his go-to orders was jaw-droppingly simple: mortadella grilled and topped with mustard, mayo, and cheese. No glitz sauces, no following the latest fad ingredients. It was the sort of sandwich your grandmother would have prepared if she just so happened to cure her own meats and spent hours ensuring every batch was flawless. That was the beauty of it. It was about comfort. About familiarity taken to an art.
Antipasto Platter With Grilled Vegetables
Equipment
- 1 Grill or Grill Pan Essential for charring vegetables
- 1 Large Pot For blanching artichokes
- 1 Whisk For emulsifying the vinaigrette
- 1 Cutting Board & Chef's Knife For vegetable prep and slicing
- 1 Large Serving Platter For attractive presentation
Ingredients
Main
- 1 lemon halved
- Kosher salt
- 1 pound baby artichokes
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
- 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs oregano, parsley, basil and thyme
- 1 clove garlic minced
- 1 tablespoon tomato juice
- 2 red bell peppers quartered
- 1/4 pound parmigiano- reggiano cheese crumbled
- 1/2 pound taleggio cheese and/or fresh goat cheese
- 3/4 pound thinly sliced cured meats prosciutto, mortadella and/or salami
- 1/4 cup olive tapenade
- 1 loaf artisanal bread sliced
Instructions
- Prepare the baby artichokes: snap off tough outer leaves until tender yellow leaves are exposed, trim the dark green parts from the base, and halve them. Immediately drop into a bowl of water with lemon juice to prevent browning.
- Bring a pot of salted water to a boil with the remaining lemon half. Add the trimmed artichokes and blanch for 3-5 minutes until tender-crisp. Drain well.
- In a small bowl, whisk together the extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, white balsamic vinegar, sugar, minced fresh herbs, minced garlic, and tomato juice to create the vinaigrette. Season with kosher salt.
- Preheat your grill or grill pan to medium-high heat. Lightly brush the blanched artichokes and quartered red bell peppers with a little olive oil.
- Grill the artichokes and bell peppers for 3-5 minutes per side, or until tender with visible grill marks and a slight char. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.
- Once cooled, roughly chop the grilled red bell peppers into bite-sized pieces.
- In a medium bowl, combine the grilled artichokes and chopped bell peppers. Drizzle with a portion of the prepared herb vinaigrette and toss gently to coat.
- On a large serving platter, artfully arrange the dressed grilled vegetables.
- Arrange the crumbled Parmigiano-Reggiano, taleggio and/or fresh goat cheese, and thinly sliced cured meats around the vegetables.
- Add a small bowl of olive tapenade and slices of artisanal bread to complete the antipasto platter. Serve immediately or at room temperature.
Notes
Salumi represented the things that meant the most to Bourdain: authenticity, humility, and profound cultural foundations. It was a response against factory-produced food and celebrity-chef egos. It reminded individuals that you don’t have to have a million-dollar kitchen to produce something to remember. You simply need care, time, and dedication to doing it the right way.
Even with Bourdain’s death, the affection he had for Salumi still attracts people. His support spotlighted it, but the food perpetuated the myth. For others, going to the shop is a means of hanging out with him. To enter a place that he once referred to as sacred. To consume a sandwich that he once declared to be perfect. And to recall that the greatest culinary experiences can occur in the most mundane locations.
Salumi wasn’t constructed to be impressive. It was constructed to pay homage to tradition, to unite people through amazing food, and to share the type of craftsmanship that can’t be replicated. That’s why Anthony Bourdain adored it and why his followers continue to visit it today.
Amidst a noisy world, Salumi is still quiet, consistent, and profoundly meaningful. The sandwiches are still tasty. The tales are still there. And in the back somewhere, you can almost hear Bourdain chuckling.
Marinated Salumi Sandwich
Equipment
- 1 Food Processor Essential for making a smooth pesto.
- 1 Small Mixing Bowl For tossing the arugula and fennel salad.
- 1 Sharp Knife For slicing bread, cheese, and fennel.
- 1 Cutting Board For safe and efficient preparation.
- 1 Plastic Wrap Crucial for tightly wrapping the sandwich to allow flavors to meld during chilling.
Ingredients
Main
- 1/2 cup raw almonds
- 1 small clove garlic
- 1 1/2 cups fresh basil leaves
- 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
- 1/4 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- Kosher salt
- 1 large loaf ciabatta bread sliced in half horizontally
- 1/4 pound thinly sliced hot coppa or other spicy salami
- 1/4 pound thinly sliced finocchiona fennel salami
- 3/4 pound fresh mozzarella sliced or torn
- 2 cups baby arugula
- 1 small fennel bulb thinly sliced
- 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Instructions
- Make the pesto: Place the almonds and garlic in a food processor. Pulse to roughly chop. Add the basil, lemon zest and parmigiano and pulse to combine. Add the olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt and puree until a smooth paste forms.
- Make the sandwich: Open the loaf of bread and pull out some of the excess bread from the inside, leaving a slightly hollowed-out loaf. Spread the pesto evenly over the inside of the bread. Layer the coppa, finocchiona and mozzarella on the bottom half of the bread. Toss together the arugula, fennel, lemon juice and olive oil in a small bowl. Place the salad on top of the meats and cheese. Top with the remaining half of the bread and press together. Wrap the sandwich tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight before slicing and serving.
