In the energetic, constantly shifting world of contemporary food culture, few personalities garner notice quite like celebrity chef David Chang. Famous for his restaurant empire, Momofuku, and his Netflix show Ugly Delicious, Chang is a personality whose views tend to provoke controversy. The most recent controversy reflects revolves around Accept Dismiss his surprisingly down-to-earth, if iconic, subject: Costco’s $4.99 rotisserie chicken.
1. Chang’s Bold Critique
Known for his blunt “hot takes,” including an appreciation for Domino’s pizza, Chang recently directed his refined sensibilities towards the wholesale giant. On a January 9 episode of his podcast, The Dave Chang Show, entitled “Dave Chang Goes to Costco and Unraveling the Truffle Conundrum,” he proclaimed Costco’s chicken “the worst rotisserie chicken” he’s ever had.
Amusingly, this was only his second trip to a Costco warehouse. His criticism went beyond the chicken, offering a vivid description of the crowded hot food section. He compared the scene to a “Gold Rush jailbreak” and stated, “it’s like they’re doing commodity trading in Chicago. I was like, ‘What is going on?'” His vivid description of frantic shoppers rushing toward hot foods underscored the popularity of Costco’s product and the frenzied, almost theatrical atmosphere of the warehouse club setting.
2. Hits and Misses at Costco
Though critical of the chicken, Chang did have praise for some of Costco’s products:
- Prime brisket: Bought for $49, below the $149–$150 specialty grocery price point, Chang was amazed by the bargain, citing how price can alter perceptions of quality.
- Frozen lobster tails: Impressed him with their quality, demonstrating that Costco’s seafood department can match specialty stores for a fraction of the price.
- Giant tub of peeled garlic: Praised as a “real Korean mom move,” ideal for puréeing and freezing. This was an aspect that highlighted Chang’s respect for efficient cooking practice-both in his line of work and in personal life.
However, the rotisserie chicken was still the focal point of his anger. He explained matter-of-factly: “They’re not good. They’re not seasoned,” stating that because they are not seasoned, the chicken becomes “inedible” when served cold the following day.
Chang emphasized that excellent rotisserie chicken should be flavorful even after cooling. “The reason it’s so important to have it seasoned is, you may eat it the following day cold, and it’s gotta be good cold,” he added. Based on him, Costco’s offering does not pass this test, something that he deems as crucial to the long-term acceptability of a rotisserie chicken.
3. The Seasoning Controversy
Costco calls its product a “Seasoned Rotisserie Chicken,” and on the ingredients it includes are salt, sodium phosphates, hydrolyzed casein, modified cornstarch, sugar, dextrose, chicken broth, isolated soy protein lecithin, and mono-and-diglycerides.
This conflict between Chang’s understanding and Costco’s labeling presents an interesting question: what is “properly seasoned”? For a Michelin-starred chef, culinary performance and complexity of flavors are more important, particularly for day-after consumption. The ingredients can retain moisture and texture, but Chang deems them inadequate for culinary greatness.
When asked about a store-bought alternative, Chang praised the Sprouts location in Alhambra, California, claiming it serves “the best rotisserie chicken I’ve ever had in a grocery store.” However, this option lacks the ubiquity and convenience of Costco’s offering, highlighting the tension between accessibility and gourmet standards.
4. Internet Backlash and Defense
Chang’s criticism lit a firestorm on the internet. Loyal Costco enthusiasts flocked to come to the defense of their favorite $4.99 chicken, demonstrating its cultural relevance.
One user wrote, “The internet going in on David Chang for his Costco rotisserie chicken comment is crazy but also fair bc that chicken is fire af.”
Others stressed its socio-economic function: “Mr. Chang must read the room. For a lot of folks, this product is a cheap building block for family meal preparation. It’s not designed to ‘taste good cold.’ It’s not gourmet.”
These answers pointed to the chicken’s main function: convenience and nutrition, not fine dining.
A few critics inserted a cultural twist. An Asian American self-identifying tweeted: “This is an attack on several fronts… How could David Chang, another Asian American, defame Costco?” Others compared Chang’s high-end product to the common chicken: “His chili crunch cost more than the chicken ???? let poor folks eat.”
International fans chimed in, as well. A Toronto user pointed out, “Momofuku just closed here but the Costcos are thriving.” That response underscored the toughness and worldwide popularity of Costco, contrasted sharply with Chang’s critique.
Not everyone was up in arms. Some reacted with incredulity: “People are upset with David Chang for complaining about Costco chickens being disgusting? So what lol.” This response argued that not all criticisms by celebrities merit moral indignation, reaffirming the multiplicity of opinion around public commentary.
5. The Business Behind the Bird
Costco’s rotisserie chicken is popular because of effective pricing. At $4.99, it’s an intentional “loss leader,” which attracts consumers who then buy more.
Low prices are made possible by an extremely efficient, vertically integrated supply chain. In Nebraska, Costco owns the feed mill, hatchery, and slaughter plant, keeping costs low and allowing for lower prices to sell. By cutting back on overheads, the company ensures that the chicken remains affordable without lowering overall profitability.
Even Chang saw its worth with a joke: “If I was a weightlifter on Atkins, I would just be purchasing that around the clock.” While being hard on it, he saw the allure for some consumers, noting how price can sometimes trump culinary flaws for value- and convenience-conscious shoppers.
6. Ethical Considerations
Costco’s chicken has come under more than just culinary attack. Shareholders in June brought an animal welfare suit in Seattle, charging neglect at contracted poultry farms. Chickens bred to be large allegedly were starved, injured, and sickened.
Nebraska processing plants have also been criticized for unfair poultry contracts. These complaints imply that the low cost might come with deeper ethical and operational issues, going well beyond the taste alone.
The discussion serves to underscore a nuanced reality: affordability and convenience may at times be in conflict with ethical and sustainable production. For most consumers, price, quality, and responsibility are a daily compromise.
7. Navigating Costco: Chang’s Experience
Chang’s trip also underscored logistical frustrations:
- No shopping bags: He likened it to “eating at a restaurant without silverware,” exposing an incompatibility between efficiency and consumer convenience.
- Packaging conundrum: The two chickens packed together raised freezer storage and mess concerns. He quipped, “This is when I know I’m becoming my mom… why, as a developed nation, we’re all going to die into hell.”
Such stories demonstrate that even for an experienced chef, bulk shopping is a special kind of challenge, highlighting the disparity between professional kitchens and consumer life.
8. Chang’s Culinary Philosophy
Knowing Chang’s wider gastronomic perspective gives context to his criticism. As Momofuku and Majordomo Media founder, he works where flavor, accuracy, and creativity reign supreme. His Netflix show Ugly Delicious delves into culture and food, demonstrating that he is comfortable pushing boundaries of traditional food concepts.
Interestingly, Chang also advocates for simplicity in home cooking. Since June 2021, he has advocated for the microwave as an instrument for “quick and quality foods,” even asserting that microwaved potatoes can be better than boiled ones. He prefers dishes such as soy-marinated salmon with rice, nori, and sesame seeds-straightforward, speedy, healthy, and full of flavor.
His love for available, high-quality home cooking, together with his complaint against bland chicken, sits well with his double emphasis on taste and convenience.
In addition, Chang has disclosed personal battles, such as having Bipolar I Disorder, which he discusses in his memoir. His firm views, whether they are regarding truffles or supermarket chicken, come from a highly introspective background informed by both professional knowledge and personal experience.
9. Cultural Dialogue
Finally, the Costco rotisserie chicken controversy goes beyond an ordinary celebrity review. It is a conflict between gourmet expectations and daily pragmatism, between gastronomic ambition and fiscal constraint.
The $4.99 chicken is not just a meal, it is a cultural beacon, a sign of value, convenience, and affordability. Chang’s hot opinion has added some heat to the discussion, bringing out the passion and varied opinions around even the most humble of foods.
In homes and restaurants around the country, it rages on. From seasoning debates to moral production, logistical factors, and cultural relevance, the lowly Costco chicken has become society’s looking glass for examining taste, value, and culinary expectations.
David Chang’s take, as divisive as it is, is a reminder that food is not just fuel; it is identity, community, and conversation-a delicious thread binding chefs, families, and the general public. The argument rages on, but one thing is for sure: even a $4.99 chicken can generate discussion that extends far beyond the plate.
