It began as an innocently planned multi-day hiking trip. Morgan Chesky, a broadcaster from Dallas, was fit and wanted a challenge with his friends. He had tackled higher spots before just fine. The trip was planned painstakingly well. They were expecting simply a nice outdoor experience.
After hiking in Bryce Canyon, things felt wrong. A fever settled in, and he hoped rest would help. The next day, on the trails in Zion Park, the situation unexpectedly got bad. A simple act of hiking at a slow pace became a struggle. His pulse spiked uncontrollably and went high. Frustration mounted as he found he couldn’t breathe. He had to give up his pack and end the trail too weak to finish the celebration.
He hoped Tylenol and another night’s sleep would fix him. But he woke up feeling worse the next day, prompting a visit to Urgent Care. The gravity of the situation became terrifyingly clear. His pulse ox registered shockingly low at 58 percent. A normal reading at sea level is 95. This drastic deviation triggered a call for an ambulance.
At Cedar City Hospital, a diagnosis was made. High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), they said. It’s a severe, potentially deadly form of altitude sickness. Research indicates it often strikes people from lower elevations. They normally ascend rapidly to altitudes above 2500 meters. Bryce and Zion are not quite 9000 feet high. Altitude sickness in this severe form doesn’t follow a predictable path.
HAPE puts immense pressure on delicate lung blood vessels. The increased pressure causes fluid to leak out, accumulating in lung tissue and filling tiny air sacs called alveoli. The consequences of fluid buildup are a profound issue, hindering the lungs’ ability to transfer oxygen to the bloodstream. Symptoms manifest two to five days after arriving at altitude. Without intervention, these symptoms can worsen rapidly, leading to bluish skin, difficulty breathing, and restlessness.
What makes HAPE particularly insidious is its potential to cause death. Medical reports cite that untreated HAPE is fatal in 50% of cases. Chesky’s experience underscored this peril fully. Despite having hiked much higher (14,000 feet) with no incident, doctors explained that there was no guaranteed immunity. They suggested that an undetected cold might have increased his susceptibility. Studies indicate that men appear more prone to the condition, and physical fitness offers little protection against HAPE onset.
Chesky’s prompt medical help was a life-saving act. Fluid filled his lungs, forcing his heart to work harder to pump limited oxygenated blood available, causing his pulse to spike dramatically. Hospital staff painted a stark picture of the possibilities: passing out or cardiac arrest were very real. He received prompt treatment with oxygen and blood thinners quickly. With stellar medical attention for 24 hours there, he was allowed to recover and return to lower elevations.
HAPE may be statistically rare among tourists, but it is a significant concern for mountaineers and climbers who operate at high altitudes. Understanding how altitude affects the body is crucial information. As climbers ascend, atmospheric pressure drops, and the total number of air molecules decreases at high altitudes. At 5,500 meters, oxygen is roughly half of that at sea level, and at the summit of Everest (8,850 meters), it’s just one-third. Even daily weather fluctuations can dramatically affect pressure.
This reduced oxygen means less gets into the bloodstream. Researchers studying Everest climbers recorded the lowest levels. Severe hypoxia can be induced quickly, a state typically seen in normally sick patients under anesthesia. At altitudes of 4500 meters, brain function is impaired, affecting critical thinking and decision-making, which are crucial for mountain safety.
Fortunately, the human body has remarkable adaptive abilities to cope with hypobaric hypoxia, which is caused by low air pressure. Martin Burtscher, a researcher in high-altitude medicine, explains the process. The body initiates several responses right away. Hyperventilation is one immediate reaction that helps. Increasing ventilation helps counteract the lack of oxygen in the blood. The kidneys and bladder also adjust cells.
Perhaps the most significant change is erythropoiesis. The body increases red blood cell production in this way, in response to the hormone EPO that the kidneys make when there is low oxygen. Weeks of gradual exposure and acclimatization lead to an increase. Total blood volume and capacity are enhanced, which is a critical thing. Enhanced oxygen transportation capacity improves. This is the fundamental biological goal of traditional acclimatization time.
The importance of slow adaptation in traditional climbing of Everest is shown. The first ascent by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary in 1953 is an example. The expedition took over two months in total time, spending several weeks simply acclimatizing them. After Base Camp, there were seven weeks of multiple forays, setting up camps, ropes, and ladders for route preparation. This process is often described as laying siege to the mountain in a way. The painstaking weeks allow the body’s defenses to build against the extreme lack of oxygen needed.
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Even today, despite modern equipment, fixed ropes, and refined logistics provided by commercial guiding companies, the overall timeframe for climbing Everest hasn’t changed much. Fast-track expeditions exist, lasting as short as two weeks, with pre-acclimatization techniques like hypoxic tents being utilized. A typical expedition recommends around two months, which includes trekking to Base Camp, taking a week. On average, around 40 days are spent on the mountain, which is needed for acclimatization rotations and the final summit push as the goal. During this extended period, the body increases its cell count.
The risks at high altitude remain substantial dangers. If hypoxia is too severe, adaptive responses can fail, potentially leading to acute mountain sickness issues. Life-threatening conditions such as pulmonary or brain edema can occur. Andrew Peacock clarifies that in severe cases, capillaries lose strength, and the lungs and brain lose integrity there, causing fluid to leak into surrounding tissues, which is bad. Fluid buildup impairs function and can be potentially fatal quickly. This is the danger when it impacts the lungs and brain badly.
Supplementary oxygen is standard practice on the highest peaks. It is delivered via canisters carried by climbers through breathing masks, effectively mimicking a lower altitude environment here. This reduces breathlessness and improves the function of vital organs such as the heart, lungs, kidneys, liver, and muscles, which are better now. Both Hillary and Norgay utilized supplementary oxygen in 1953, and it remains a cornerstone of safety for most Everest climbers. Over 7,000 people have summited Everest to our knowledge, with a tiny fraction, just 230, doing so without oxygen here.
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The threat of severe altitude sickness, like HAPE, highlights the challenge. High-altitude environments have an unrelenting lack of oxygen. Even with the body’s natural adaptations, a limit to survival exists. Experts agree that above 8000 meters, called the Death Zone, is bad. The body begins to deteriorate even with acclimatization attempted. The combination of extreme cold, wind, and immense strain is bad, leading to cardiopulmonary system, tissue, and organ degradation, as well as dehydration. Morgan Chesky’s story at lower altitudes serves as a lesson. Altitude effects can strike fit and experienced people, underscoring the critical need to respect the mountain environment. Diligent attention to symptoms is always required.
Preventing HAPE, a form of severe altitude sickness, is paramount. Anyone venturing to significant elevations must prepare well. Research suggests that HAPE is rare among tourists who are well-prepared. The most fundamental preventive measure is gradual acclimatization, with sufficient time given. Allowing the body sufficient time to adapt properly now means spending days or weeks at progressively higher altitudes. Factoring in rest days into the ascent process is beneficial, giving the body the opportunity to initiate natural adaptive responses. Sleeping at lower altitudes is sometimes beneficial and helpful. Other strategies are recommended beyond pacing the ascent speed.
Avoiding alcohol, particularly at higher elevations, is advised. It can interfere with sleep and respiratory function, perhaps. Minimizing salt intake and steering clear of sleeping pills are often recommended preventive steps. Should symptoms of altitude sickness start to appear, especially those that might suggest HAPE is coming on, such as worsening cough, significant fatigue, and breathlessness at rest, the single most important action is immediate descent. Receiving supplemental oxygen is also a critical intervention, buying valuable time while descent is organized and medical help arrives fast.
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Ultimately, stories like Morgan Chesky’s are powerful reminders. Altitude poses a big, sometimes unpredictable risk here. No fitness level guarantees immunity. Even seemingly modest elevations harbor danger too. If the body is unable to adapt adequately, problems happen. Other factors may contribute to vulnerability. Understanding the science of hypoxia and how the body copes is key. The importance of gradual acclimatization and vigilance are cornerstones of safety. They set the necessary context for appreciating the risks inherent in mountainous places here. Evaluating alternative, potentially faster, perhaps less proven approaches is needed.
Traditional climbing involves going slow at high altitudes to let the body adapt. A new expedition style now seeks speed. They aim to dramatically shorten the climb time. The quest for speed is driven by client requests and a desire to minimize hazard exposure. Bad weather or avalanches pose a danger and risk. One very bold plan has garnered big attention.
It involves summiting Mount Everest quickly. The whole trip takes only a week. This was unthinkable before this plan. Only certain past climbs used such short times, with specific ways of preparing the body. Lukas Furtenbach, a guide, pushes the limits on Everest. His company has proposed taking clients from London.
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Flying to the top of Everest and back takes a week. The plan is to fly to Kathmandu first by plane. Then, a helicopter goes directly to Base Camp quickly. The attempt at a summit push happens just a few days later. It skips the weeks needed for the body to get used to the altitude. This fast trip comes with a significant price tag, as reported. It’s likely to cost around €150,000 per person.
The key to the plan is using an unexpected substance. It is Xenon gas that they are using. Xenon is a noble gas and a chemical element. It is sometimes used in medicine as an anesthetic. The idea comes from a side effect that was seen about ten years ago. They noticed it then. It appeared to increase EPO production in the body.
EPO is made by the kidneys when oxygen levels are low. It makes the bone marrow produce more red cells. Hemoglobin, a protein, carries oxygen through the body. More oxygen capacity is needed at high altitudes. Traditional acclimatization takes weeks to achieve this. The idea is to use Xenon doses before the trip starts. They plan to inhale carefully controlled amounts.
This might speed up EPO production quickly. It could shortcut the acclimatization process faster. Furtenbach claims to have tested the strategy successfully. He reached the summit of Aconcagua in a week’s time in 2020. He felt strong and fast with a low dose of the gas. He reported high blood oxygen saturation levels. He also reports similar Everest test results from 2022.
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Scientists and mountain people are very skeptical. Significant concern surrounds the safety and effectiveness of the idea. Medical experts point out a gap in the data. Little published science proves that inhaling xenon helps. No strong evidence exists for the benefit of rapid ascent. Andrew Peacock, a professor who studies altitude medicine, notes that increasing EPO doesn’t mean quick production of red cells.
The effect on red cells normally takes weeks. He questions if xenon makes the cells rise fast enough for the short time planned on the mountain. A recent study review found no strong proof that inhaling xenon improves altitude performance, it said. Mike Grocott, who led Everest research, feels doubtful. Xenon may have body effects that boost EPO, he thinks.
The claimed cell change needed is “extraordinary,” he says, based on the data available. Martin Burtscher, a researcher who has seen the studies, notes that xenon increased EPO but not blood volume. Fitness and athletic performance stayed the same, he observed. Major safety fears surround the use of xenon gas, especially high up on the mountain.
The UIAA has warned about using climbing-related substances. No research on their safety and efficacy at high altitude exists. They warned that, as an anesthetic gas, it can impair brain function. It could cause breathing problems, they said. It could even be fatal without careful checking and assistance. The UIAA’s previous view raised concerns about clotting. Drugs that boost EPO carry the risk of blood clots, it is said.
They could lead to strokes or lung problems, perhaps. Fries says small doses can cause brief dizziness. The UIAA says slight sedation is bad at high altitudes. High-altitude mountaineering is a dangerous setting. Substances that artificially raise EPO are banned. WADA bans xenon in competitive sports events. Adrian Ballinger, a rival guide, questions the use of xenon.
Why use banned substances in mountaineering trips? Anti-doping rules don’t formally apply here. However, commercial guided climbing is a different case. Its use raises ethical debates among climbers’ groups. About fairness and the spirit of sport in doing this. This is not the first time climbers have used aids. Pharmacological and technical shortcuts have been tried before.
Historically, alpinists have experimented with various substances. The legendary Hermann Buhl used Pervitin, a stimulant, during the first ascent of Nanga Parbat long ago. Amphetamine was found in climber urine samples in a 1993 study. More common prescription drugs are used. Diamox is popular for speeding up acclimatization and helping with sleep. Dexamethasone is a critical medicine for brain edema.
Experts warn against using substances unless they are needed. Viagra was hoped to help with lung fluid buildup. However, trials didn’t show it to be an effective drug. The search for drugs that boost performance continues. New anemia drugs that stimulate EPO are being tested now. The push for faster ascents includes non-drug methods, like pre-acclimatization using hypoxic tents.
Climbers sleep in low-oxygen tents at home for weeks before the expedition starts up the mountains. Furtenbach offered “flash” trips using these tents. They were two weeks long. He noted that they weren’t always popular with clients. These methods are more established than using Xenon. They still differ from simply being on the mountain to acclimatize.
The shift towards faster commercial trips changes the view of Everest. Will Cockrell, the author of “Everest, Inc.”, thinks so. He suggests that Everest has stopped being a “pure” climbing experience. This happened when guiding became widespread in the 1990s. Many modern clients focus more on the summit goal. They view it perhaps as completing a marathon event, rather than a traditional alpine ascent.
The idea of a one-week ascent feels different. Classic six- to ten-week trips are long, like a quick tour of the Sistine Chapel. It sacrifices the process for the destination goal. Furtenbach argues that less time means less risk. The dangers of avalanches and rockfalls are reduced. Critics highlight that rapid ascents require more support.
Increasing reliance on external factors and systems is bad. Adrian Ballinger warns that self-sufficiency is lowered. If something fails high up, it is bad. Without adequate natural acclimatization, the body is more vulnerable. There is a higher chance of getting sick quickly, an expert said. It could lead to death or passing out rapidly. The body is so unprepared for the height in this way.
Skepticism and risks exist for all this. Four ex-military friends use xenon anyway. They are planning a one-week ascent guided by a man from Furtenbach’s company. They see it as a comfortable, calculated risk. From their military roles, they balance risk. They view xenon as one small element that helps. It might enhance their ability and reduce the chance of sickness.
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Using other preparation methods like tent training, rigorous diet and exercise plans are also used. Climbers acknowledge the inherent uncertainty in their climbing plans. They estimate a 30% chance of success in seven days and a 70% chance that it will take up to 21 days, it is said. This bold experiment with xenon shows that the landscape is changing. It encapsulates the complex and evolving world of high-altitude climbing.
It highlights the human drive to overcome tough places. Rapid technological and drug advancements are being explored and seen. There is a dynamic tension between safety, ethics, and performance. Traditional mountaineering values clash here. Lukas Furtenbach plans to send his clients to the summit now, aided by xenon and supplemental oxygen. The world watches curiously to see the outcome and results this time.
Is this a revolutionary step in conquering the peak or a risky gamble? Different climbing styles are likely to coexist on Everest. Slow, traditional trips and fast, tech-assisted trips both appear. The challenge of Everest remains its lack of oxygen. A fragile relationship exists between the body and the thin air. Even with acclimatization and an oxygen tank, perhaps experimental aids like xenon are also part of it.
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Mountain height conditions present immense peril; it is a place where things can go very wrong. The consequences of failure are always severe. Stories of HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) at low altitudes serve as reminders to us. Altitude is unpredictable and always demands respect. Fitness or past climbs don’t always matter at high altitudes. Technology and ambition constantly push boundaries forward. However, core principles like vigilance and preparation remain key elements.
Understanding one’s body limits is a vital aspect of this dangerous dance with the world’s highest places. The quest for speed continues on mountain slopes, but in the end, the mountain always has the final say. This test will reveal something about climbing. We will watch what happens up there.
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